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Blocking is used to fix the shape and size of your piece and helps flatten it. Its something you wont really do if youre making amigurumi only, but lace, doilies, afghans and shawls should be blocked most of the time, and other wearables can be blocked too. Usually, the pattern tells you if the piece needs blocking or not, however, sometimes its a bit less explicit (e.g. theyll write something like "Size after blocking: 100 cm by 100 cm" or such).
As it was previously mentioned, youll use water for blocking, but the method depends on what kind of yarn youve used.
For natural fibres (like cotton, bamboo, wool, etc.), youll use the wet blocking technique. First, soak the piece in some warm water for an hour or so. Then carefully squeeze out the excess water. Rolling the piece up sandwiched between towels work well. Then youll need a piece of thick foam (or something flat but soft enough for pins to go through) sightly bigger than your finished work. Arrange your work flat, and start pinning the sides, making sure its somewhat taut but try not to overstretch it. Use pins that wont rust! When youre happy with the number of pins (the edges look straight, the piece is secure), just leave it to dry by itself.
For acrylic yarn, youll have to steam-block it. This will require you to pin the work first, and then introduce steam. Ideally, you should use a clothes steamer, but a steam iron works well as long as youre not putting it directly on the crocheted piece. Its also a good idea to put a thin fabric on the crocheted piece if youre using an iron just to be sure and pin your piece with the wrong side up. Go slowly with the steam, so the yarn has enough time to react to it. Once youve gone through the entire piece, just leave it pinned until it gets dried.
If you decide on skipping blocking, youll still end up with a useable piece, but it wont look as tidy as it would with blocking. Also, blocking is not permanent, meaning you might have to repeat it after each wash depending on your piece and your washing method. |
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