Do you mean that the width of your project is wider than the width of the scroll frame?
If that is the case, for myself, I would not use the scroll frame.
To fold the sides of the fabric and then roll it onto the frame would cause a problem with tension.
The width of the frame needs to be wider than the width of the fabric so the tension is nice and tight for stitching.
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As Sallyrose said, it needs to fit inside on the sides. Here is a page that gives drawings to explain: http://www.better-cross-stitch-patterns.com/scroll-frame.html It can be longer but it cannot be wider. This is why I have several. The largest is almost the size of a quilting frame.
You can adjust the width of smaller cloth by basting other material on to the sides and fixing on the scroll frame. For material larger you need to pick a larger frame. If you have material hanging from the sides it is going to distort your fabric. IF you do not have to scroll, then tacking it to the sides would work but if you have to scroll at all, you cant.
I have used similar scroll frames for many years but mine are a little bit different. Because I started stitching years ago, and scroll frames were expensive for me, my father made me several. Some have longer "arms" or longer rods to put the fabric on. this way I could make a variety of sizes depending on the fabric size.
My father used a saw blade to cut the dowel rod down the middle about 85% of the way through (so it will not split entirely in half). Then he sanded the inside (cut) edges to make them smooth so the fabric would no catch on any slivers. I slipped the fabric through and wound it up tight and then did the same with the bottom.
This way I didnt have to sew or attach anything to the canvas tabs you see on some of the scroll frames that are sold. I still have all my frames and use them often but nowadays I prefer to stitch in hand or with a Q-Snap because the wood frame can become heavy. Then again I do have my floor stand as well, but still I prefer the whole thing to be more up closer.
I have similar frames minus fabric stapled to the dowl. I always tape my fabric right on to the dowl rods. I give my self an extra bit of fabric when calculating for my project so I can just cut off the taped ends. I never have any problem with tension and my projects stay in their frames for several months at a time.
An old friend of mine used a staple gun to attatch fabric to wooden scroll, so I tried this, and it worked a treat, just staple the top and bottom into the wood, and scroll the fabric nice and tight,
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Post time 2012-5-29 18:04
I have similar frames minus fabric stapled to the dowl. I always tape my fabric right on to the dowl ...
An old friend of mine used a staple gun to attatch fabric to wooden scroll, so I tried this, and it worked a treat, just staple the top and bottom into the wood, and scroll the fabric nice and tight, when finished just gently remove the staples with a knife, this has been great, as I prefer a scroll for larger projects.